Welcome to images from the 30th I Madonnari Italian Street Painting Festival. This annual event, sponsored by The Children’s Creative Project is a Santa Barbara and Tom Buhl favorite.
Held over Memorial Day weekend, I have been an artist for twenty-five of those thirty years. Last year was my “official” retirement as a participant. Titanium knees and shoulders do not lend themselves to this activity. I miss being a part of it.
It is inspiring to wander the Mission setting without chalk smears all over my face and clothes. I like to take photos all three days to see the art as it develops. Some artists finish on the first day, but many will be at working well into Monday.
Today, I enjoyed talking to my artistic friends as well as others, like me, who bask in the swirl of art, food, music and community.
Tomorrow is another day, and perhaps a few more images to share. Enjoy.
In the two part half-blind demo post, I created the sockets entirely with the chisels. However, I will often use a back saw to define the edges of the sockets. Because this is not a through cut, you will only go down roughly half way. When dealing with tough stock such as bubinga or the highly-figured mahogany shown here, I will also scoop out part of the material using my bowsaw. That saves a bit of wear and tear on the chisel edges and the aging operator’s joints.
Note: In the next post I show a few additional steps commonly used when creating the sockets. See extra.
I now prepare the sockets in the pin board which typically is a drawer front or case top and bottoms. I alternate vertical cuts with horizontal cuts to pop out waste, staying away from marks until the bulk of the waste is removed. The outside half pins can be quite fragile so it is good to reinforce them with clamps [see photos].
Some people will use a trim router for this task. That helps give uniform floor for the socket. Another approach is to use a Forstner bit in the drill press to achieve the same result. I am attracted to using the chisel approach. One drawback is the possibility of the horizontal chisel cuts diving downwards following grain direction. I try to be careful and save the final “horizontal” cuts for when I place the board vertically in my Moxon vise.
After the bulk of socket waste is removed, I chop down the knife line. Then placing the board in the Moxon vise I make the half-blind cuts and make other refinements which are easier to see in this orientation.
I test the fit further refinement as necessary. I leave the clamp in place for the fitting if possible.
This demo was made with two test boards. At a later date I’ll post some pix of this same procedure with a real project. I am currently working on a book cabinet which has a nice drawer. Stay tuned.
A visitor to my shop was asking about techniques to create half-blind dovetails so I took photos of the step-by-step. There are many ways to achieve that joint. This is just one approach.
A shallow (<1/16 inch) rabbet is cut at router table. The push rig allows safe handling and to keep a narrow workpiece perpendicular to the fence. An extra waste board is used here because the rig is pretty well chewed up. The pin board is then placed tightly against the rabbet and length of tail marked with knife. After marking the side opposite the rabbet with marking gauge, the tails are drawn with a shop-made template. Usually I use a bevel gauge for this. The template used in the photo is 14 degrees, which is greater than typically used for drawer construction.
A backsaw cuts along those lines down to the knifed line. With the board in the Moxon vise, a chisel creates a small notch to guide the backsaw. The bowsaw with thin blade is used to remove interior waste, staying away from the knife marks. Chisel to the marks and place the tailboard against the pin board for marking with a knife.
Pencil marks indicate material to be removed. With larger projects it is easy to become confused so I am in the habit of using a large X to indicate waste.
The seat blank was created from two pieces of chestnut. After milling the blank to rough size the mortises were created for the leg tenons [see earlier posts].
Three holes were drilled as guides for the deepest area of scooping. A #9 curved gouge was used to rough out the interior shape, followed by sanding and scraping. The external shape was cut at the bandsaw, then shaped with spokeshave, rasps and sandpaper.
In the gallery below is an image of seat with legs in place. This gave me an opportunity to assess the look. Next up: glue and wedges.